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Tuesday, October 30, 2012

The little town (Salem) of horrors, and a monster storm makes Halloween a real horror show

This is scary stuff. 
Don't look now, Terri, but something wicked comes your way.
Anthony makes is way through the throng of visitors to Salem, Mass.
Old headstones from the 1700s line Old Burying Point Cemetery in Salem, Mass.

Checking out an above-ground crypt in Salem.


SALEM, Mass. A young man pretended to fall dead on a crowded sidewalk. A woman stepped out of a parked car and rushed over to draw a chalk outline around the body.

Pedestrians laughed as they maneuvered around the victim, who abruptly stood up, jumped into a car and drove off with a giggling woman, leaving the outline of the body intact.

Sounds strange? Not in this city of the damned.

Welcome to Salem a community that dresses up each Halloween to proudly tout its infamous past. For the entire month of October, Salem goes out of its way to give visitors the creeps

You might just call it the Mardi Gras of the East

Who needs ghosts and or the undead when the living dress in strange costumes and parade through the narrow streets of a city where 19 men and women were accused and convicted of witchcraft and later hung at Gallows Hill in the 1690s.

Last Saturday, the three of us decided to join the rest of the trick-or-treaters to roam these haunted streets for a third tour of Salem.

It never gets old, and it is always a bizarre experience.

I used to work with this poor soul.
We were aware that Hurricane Sandy was closing in on the Eastern seaboard, but that didn't deter us from our visit even though the monstrous storm was right on our heels when we returned to Maine

My wife and son enjoy Salem's macabre atmosphere. They are always keeping an eye out for orbs and their ears open for hair-raising screams and that occasional bump in the night.

According to paranormal enthusiasts, there are  plenty of wandering ghosts who apparently won't let go of their former lives in a city where religious malevolence triggered hysteria and the persecution of its citizens, many of whom met their deaths at the end of the hangman's rope or died in prison.

Our first stop

Burying Point Cemetery is usually our first destination. For some visitors, above-ground crypts and old headstones give this cemetery a gloomy feeling.

There are some famous chaps buried in this ancient place. According to graveaddiction.com: "One of the most famous people buried in the cemetery is Justice John Hathorne, the great-great-grandfather of writer Nathaniel Hawthorne. John Hathorne was a judge during the witch trials, and he had a bad reputation. Nathaniel Hawthorne was so ashamed of his ancestor's role in the trials that he added a "w" in his name to make it different."

I am sure Burying Point takes on a new look and feel in the dark, but that could be said of all graveyards, especially ones with a mysterious past.

So much to do

If you need a respite from the macabre or the crowds, head over to Pickering Wharf and inhale those refreshing sea breezes. Better yet, take a mile walk on a jetty to check out Derby Wharf Lighthouse. While you are there, take a good look across the bay to catch a glimpse of nearby Bakers Island.

There are many small shops pedaling the gothic lifestyle. Get your palm read by a psychic who seems to have a handle on everybody's future. 

Several years ago, Terri met Salem's official Witch of Salem — Laurie Cabot — a charismatic women who charmed my wife. Terri somehow convinced Ms. Cabot to take a picture with her  at no charge.

It was a bewitching experience for both women.

During that same visit, we toured the House of Seven Gables and squeezed through the secret passage that features a narrow flight of stairs. It is a tight fit for a big man like myself, and I saw one tourist suffer a serious bout of claustrophobia as she struggled to reach the top of the stairwell.

According to www.7gables.org: "When you arrive at The House of the Seven Gables - which constitutes its own national historic district on The National Register of Historic places — professional guides will warmly greet you for an unforgettable historical experience. Outside, spectacular seaside gardens await you. Inside of The House of the Seven Gables, also known as the Turner-Ingersoll Mansion, you will discover a mysterious secret staircase where you least expect it! Built in 1668, this is the oldest surviving 17th century wooden mansion in New England. The House of the Seven Gables inspired author Nathaniel Hawthorne to write his legendary novel of the same name."

There are numerous tourist destinations including the Pirates and Witch museums, and of course, The Friendship of Salem — a 171-foot replica of the 1797 East Indiaman. And don't forget about the living who enjoy making spectacles of themselves with their outrageous costumes.

I enjoyed spending 45 minutes watching a baseball game being played by men dressed in Civil War-era baseball uniforms on Salem Common, — nine-acre park that is overlooked by an imposing statue of Puritan Roger Conant who founded the city.

But one of the best moments during my visit was having my son take a photograph 
of the two of us standing next to the same gazebo that Terri stood on 24 years ago.

I often wonder where those wonderful 24 years have gone. I guess that's why Salem's stubborn ghosts try to hold to their past.

For me, I try to hold on to every minute I have with my family in this lifetime.



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Out and about

Take a walk on the wild side around New England's outdoors. Come walk with my son and I as we explore state parks, historic sites, and creepy cemeteries. This is the good stuff in life, and there is nothing worth watching on television, anyway. Join us as we take advantage of Maine's beaches and pristine forests. In between our sojourns through the Pine Tree State, look for political insight and a few well-written opinion pieces as well.