Stepping into Maine's past

The way to the top

The long road to the top

The observatory tower. It is a massive structure.

A view of a section of the fort. Note the command post at the top.

Fort Baldwin shows its wear and tear.

A window to the past

This where one of the big guns stood.

A fireplace to take the chill out of a cold sea breeze.

PHIPPSBURG, Maine — There are two huge granite and cement relics that can't be ignored when you visit Popham Beach.

One behemoth, Fort Popham, sits menacingly on the coast. The other garrison, stealthy Fort Baldwin, is just across the street from Fort Popham and is hidden on a hilltop overlooking the beach. 

For people who have a passion for history, these massive remnants were built to protect Maine's coast and won't cost you a dime as you spend a good hour touring these coastal fortifications. There is no charge for taking a peak inside the austere rooms or stand where an artillery battery was located.

Unfortunately, these structures have shown a lot of wear and tear and will probably need restoration to prevent these fortifications from crumbling into the ground.

After getting tossed about in Popham's wild surf, Anthony, my wife, Terri, and I break camp and drive down the end of the beach to visit both forts. It has become a habit for us. For three students of history, making the 500-foot climb to visit Fort Baldwin or trudging up the second tier of Fort Popham is a treat and a good workout, too.

Fort Popham's massive 30-foot walls peppered with gun ports can be seen from the beach, but when you enter the fort, you are caught in a time warp dating back to Civil War. You will marvel at the huge blocks of granite used to construct the fort that has been around since 1862. My son and I would pack up our toy pistols and pretend we were repelling the Confederate army or worse — bloodthirsty pirates who were bent on sacking the town of Phippsburg. We aimed our toy weapons through the gun ports and ordered our imaginary artillery on the first floor of the structure to shell rebel ships sitting in the water just outside the fort.

According to www.travel.maine.info, Fort Popham housed 36 cannon, each weighing 25 tons and firing projectiles weighing up to 480 pounds.There are 20 musket ports on the second tier of the fort. This fort was garrisoned during the Spanish American War and World War I, too. But the construction of Fort Baldwin to house long-range artillery made Fort Popham obsolete.

From 1905 to 1912, workers poured tons of concrete to build Fort Baldwin on 38 acres of land high above the beach. The fort took its name from Colonial army engineer Jeduthan Baldwin. The fort consisted of three batteries, including Cogan with two three-inch guns, Hawley with two six-inch pedestal guns and Hardman with one six inch pedestal gun, according to www.visitmaine.com. Both forts were garrisoned by 200 soldiers from the 13th and 29th Coastal Artillery during World War I, and all three batteries were removed in 1924.

But Fort Baldwin was garrisoned again in World War II and was used as an observatory. The 8th Coast Artillery occupied the fort from 1941 to 1943 to watch for German boats.

Baldwin also has unique landmark — a 30- to 40-foot observatory tower that leaves you winded when you finally get to the top, but what a view of Fort Popham and the beach's surrounding landscape.

When you have seen enough of the forts, there is an old cannon on the beach next to Percy's General Store. I am not sure what make it is, but I am betting it is either a Rodman or a Dahlgren. Whatever the make or its age, this is still one menacing cannon, which sits facing the open waters of the Atlantic.

There are 25 forts in Maine and each fortification is unique in its design. These garrisons allow Anthony and I an opportunity to step back in time and learn about their roles in American history.