Ships ahoy, and T with Lizzie Borden

Anthony pauses with the USS Massachusetts behind him.

Terri stands in front of the Massachusetts' 16-inch guns.

Anthony and dad stand in front of the Massachusetts' 16-inch guns.

Anthony and Terri check out the inside of the USS Lionfish.

Anthony stands on the conning tower of the USS Lionfish.

Anthony takes aim with the Lionfish's deck gun.

The U.S. Flag flutters in the wind at the stern of the Massachusetts.

“Men go back to the mountains, as they go back to sailing ships at sea, because in the mountains and on the sea they must face up.”

- Henry David Thoreau

       FALL RIVER, Mass. — We climbed up and down countless flights of steep stairs and squirmed through narrow hatchways in the bowels of World War II vessels for nearly four hours during Patriots' Day weekend.

These behemoths from the past stand at parade rest at Battleship Cove — a haven and an open-air, hands-on museum for proud ships, which stood in harm's way during conflicts around the globe. The site is located at the confluence of the Taunton River and Mount Hope Bay.

When you tour these floating marvels, get your sneakers on for a demanding workout that will leave your legs and back sore in the morning — and you reaching for a pain reliever. 

One clumsy move as you amble down a steep flight of stairs could cost you a broken leg or a nasty bump on the head. Snaking your way through tiny corridors is not for the claustrophobic and would give rats second thoughts about coming aboard.

Every flight I scaled left me wondering how brave sailors dashed through the ship's constricting hallways when the order for "Battle stations! This is not a drill!" was shouted over the public address system.

You see, we are history fanatics who savor our nation's military past. For us, going to Battleship Cove is like purchasing front-row seats at Hadlock Field or Fenway Park. Battleship Cove is one giant learning experience — especially for people who appreciate the sea and warships

Spend several hours on the decks of the USS battleship Massachusetts or the destroyer Joseph P. Kennedy and you will come to appreciate what courageous sailors endured when mighty guns blasted away at enemy targets in a naval engagement. 

I can't imagine batting down the hatches during a typhoon or the endless boredom in the blistering South Pacific heat, waiting for the enemy to appear on the horizon. Getting sleep below deck in those sweltering quarters must have been unbearable for these combat veterans.

Besides an eye-opening tour of ships, the Cove also offers "The Pearl Harbor Experience," a special-effects presentation in surround sound. Splashing water from the bay creates a simulation of enemy planes strafing ships while the presentation is shown on a giant screen.

Leaving Maine

We had been planning this whirlwind trip for some time. It was worth the journey.

Fall River is nearly four hours from our home in Auburn. There are several routes to get to Battleship Cove, but I charted a course straight through Boston.

 

Driving into the Hub is like the Joseph P. Kennedy maneuvering through a mine field. I am from the greater Boston area so I know drivers in the Bay State are a different breed and often resemble kamikaze pilots on the road. But when in Rome, do as the Romans do. And if that kind of thinking doesn't work for you in Boston, then damn the torpedos and full speed ahead as you race across the Tobin Bridge.

Once you are safely out of Boston, it is smooth sailing as you drive down Interstate 93 and then onto Route 24.  Jump onto Route 78 and head toward Fall River where the USS Massachusetts is clearly visible as you drive toward the Cove. It is a spectacular site even from the window of a moving car.

Treasure Cove

This trio of weary travelers found a parking spot about 100 yards from these magnificent ships. We grabbed the camera, took pictures of the Massachusetts' enormous propeller and hurried toward the looming goliaths resting on calm waters. The weather was just right as temperatures hovered around 70 degrees with a refreshing sea breeze.

We bought our tickets at the gift shop and went through a quick maze as we passed along the Joseph P. Kennedy. There are no tour guides at the Cove. So we decided to check out the PT Boats before we boarded the other ships.

The Mosquito Fleet

The Cove houses the PT 796 and 617. What I found surprising was their size and girth. These craft might look small in movies such as "PT 109," but they are huge and heavily armed.

According to the Cove's Web site, "these boats were generally 80' in length and carried a beam (width) of 20'. Typical armaments included four torpedoes and an assortment of 40 mm, 37 mm, 20 mm, and .50 caliber machine guns, depth charges, and rocket launchers. Three Packard Marine gasoline engines powered the boats to a top speed of 45 knots."

It takes about a good 45 minutes to peruse this exhibit, but when you see the various armaments, you will come to understand why these suped-up boats played an important roll during World War II.

The USS Massachusetts

Her crew of 2,100 lovingly referred to her as "Big Mamie." 

Touring the entire this vessel takes stamina. It's that big. But when hunger sets in and you don't mind fast food, check out the ship's mess hall. Cub Scouts were coming aboard to spend the night on her. 

What a bunch of lucky scouts.

The Massachusetts' 16-inch guns are massive. During its service in World War II, these weapons delivered ear-splitting, thunderous firepower. The ship, which was built in Quincy, Mass., saw action during the invasions of North Africa and the Marshall Islands.

Anthony and I found a way to get to the captain's bridge, where commanders called the shots from above those devastating 16-inch guns. Terri elected to remain below. After climbing several flights of stairs, I think she might have been right. But when you get to the bridge and sit in the captain's chair, you now have a front-row seat on one of the most powerful World War II battleships.

We discovered that one station housing the 40-millimeter Bofor guns are in working condition. Anthony put some elbow grease into raising the elevation of the guns and had fun sighting a target across the river.

The Joseph P. Kennedy, Jr.

Named after John F. Kennedy's oldest brother who was killed over the English Channel during the war, this sleek destroyer was commissioned in December 1945, too late to see action. But the proud ship served in the Korean Conflict and participated in the blockade during the Cuban missile crisis.

The Kennedy was one of the navy's workhorses for 27 years before being decommissioned in 1973.

The Hindensee

This unique warship was built in Russia and served in the East German People's Navy and then the Federal German Navy after reunification.

According to the Cove's Web site, the Hindensee carried long-range STYX anti-ship missiles and an array of defensive weapons designed to ensure her own survivability. The ship joined the Cove in 1997.

The USS Lionfish

Think small when you board this submarine and go below. It requires a lot of ducking and twisting and turning to move about in this cozy environment. The hatchways are four feet high, making it really difficult for guy like me who is stands at 6 foot 3.

A tour of the engine room and the subs' torpedoes   also makes you appreciate the men who served in the Silent Service.

When you are on deck, check out the conning tower and the sub's deadly deck gun.

The voyage home 

After an exhaustive tour of the Cove, we headed to the motel to make plans to drop in for tea with Lizzie Borden the next day. Of course, I got lost heading to the Comfort Inn, but one of Fall River's finest, officer Jason Staley gave us a police escort to the motel, which was just up the road. Talk about excellent community police work.

Of course, Lizzie is no longer with us. Her trial and subsequent acquital for the hatchet murders of both her parents in their home still draws curious tourists to 92 2nd Street No. 230 in Fall River.

We stopped twice for directions. One young man asked why we wanted to go "there." He said, "A lot bad things happened there, man. Stay away from there, man."

He was right, but my wife, who ardently believes ghosts lurk inside the Borden home, wanted to stand outside for a picture.

Why not. After all, it was once a horrific crime scene that ended in a dramatic trial.

Despite a round-trip of 430 miles and making the gas companies richer, I had the privilege of touring historic ships with my son and wife.

Some families find fun and happiness in the "hurry up and wait" atmosphere at Disney Land. We found our enjoyment on the decks of old battle wagons from an era when Americans banded together during one of the ugliest moments in mankind.